Winter Stress
While snow, ice, and freezing rain covering your trees and shrubs may
make your yard look like a winter wonderland, that same ice can cause
damage you won't even notice until next spring.
Our tree and shrub experts at TruGreen
offer the following information.
Sun scald: This occurs when sunshine warms a tree's inner tissue
to above the freezing mark. When the sun no longer shines on the tree,
the tissue freezes again. This cycle, if repeated, damages the tissue.
Symptoms, noticeable in spring, include brown or black leaves, stem or
branch dieback, bark splitting, or plant decline.
Winter drying: This condition – also known as "winter burn" –
arises when leaves continue to lose water which is not replaced, usually
in dry or frozen soil. Symptoms include marginal leaf scorch, tip burn,
leaf mottling, leaf drop, or death of entire leaves, twigs, or plants.
Evergreen plants in exposed sites are more prone to this injury, as are
unprotected recent transplants. New plants are also more susceptible to
winter injury.
Heavy snow or ice can also be damaging to trees and shrubs, particularly
upright evergreens such as junipers and arborvitaes. Snow can be removed
using a long-handled broom, but ice usually can't be removed without damaging
the plant.
Frost damage: Frost can result in sudden death of foliage, buds,
and/or flowers. Frost may cause curling, browning or blackening of leaves
and twigs. Fortunately, hardy plants will generally recover.
Prevention: Specific measures you can take to lessen winter injury
include:
- Using wind breaks, composed of burlap or some other thick material,
in exposed areas
- Ensuring sufficient moisture in the root zone before the soil freezes;
using mulch also helps retain moisture
- Maintaining plants by providing necessary nutrients, water, and protection
against stress for more tolerance to winter injury
- Planting trees and shrubs that are hardy to the area
- Planting trees and shrubs in well-drained soils
Make sure your evergreens don't dry out in the winter. In the western
U.S., with warm, dry winter winds, feel free to water needle-leaf evergreens
if soil is not frozen. Wherever soil is not frozen, azaleas and other
broadleaf evergreens also should be watered if soil dries out. When spring
rolls around, prune injured or dead branches and twigs after growth has
started. Lightly fertilizing injured plants in the spring will help in
their recovery.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I use trunk wrap on the bark of my ash tree in the winter?
Trunk or bark wraps should only be used on smooth barked trees such as
young ash, maples and honey locust to protect against "sunscald". Trunk
wrap is most beneficial in areas that experience sunny, cold conditions
during the winter. Trunk wraps must always be removed in the spring after
temperatures warm.
My ornamental grasses turned brown over the winter. What should I
do?
Many ornamental grasses turn color during the winter. Cut down the brown
leaves and stems to the ground. New leaves and stems will develop from
the plant base.
Will my ornamental plants recover from winter injury? What should
I do?
If the plants are cold hardy in your area, then recovery is likely. Once
all danger of frost is past and plants have resumed growth, prune out
the dead portions. Watering, if necessary, and fertilizing will also help
recovery.
For help with your lawn, trees, and shrubs, schedule one of our fertilization
services from the experts at TruGreen
.
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For help with your trees & shrubs, schedule a free analysis
from the experts at TruGreen
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